Turning Back Time in Malacca

Mapping the History of Malacca

Tracing the narrow stretch of the Malacca River with my sight in awe and walking along the cobbled streets of Jonker and Heeren, I travel back in time when tradesmen, sailors and townfolks breathe life in this Asian gateway and unknowingly created an important chapter of history as we know today.

Malacca fueled the lucrative spice trade during the 15th century between China and India on one side and the Middle East on the other. The Portuguese, Dutch and British were captivated by the strategic location of Malacca, conquered it and contributed to the formation of its identity. Centuries after, their influences remain evident on the daily Malaccan lifestyle which mesh beautifully with Malay and Chinese culture.

The Fugitive, the Tree and the River

“In 1396, a Sumatran prince by the name of Parameswara fled his country out of fear of the attacking Majapahit Empire. Landing in Temasek, he killed the local ruler and established himself over the island that is now known as Singapore. A few years later, he was driven out by a Thai-controlled army and once again, was left scouting for a new piece of land.” Read more from here.

Along the way, he witnessed an amusing incident which he interpreted as a good omen. While resting under an Indian goosebery tree or locally known as melaka, he saw a mouse deer outwitting his hunting dog. This sign made him decide to stay and establish a town named Melaka meant for trading which grew in time as the more commonly Silk Road route has become dangerous for tradesmen. Malaca for the Portuguese, Malacka or Malakka for the Dutch, and Malacca for the English, the name stuck and is now officially called Melaka.

The Birth of the Peranakans

Parameswara sought protection from the Chinese to ward off Malay retaliatory attacks and allowed them to settle in Malacca. The result is an interesting mix of Islamic Malay and Chinese cultures called Peranakan. Recognizable up to now, the Peranakan culture exhibited and continues to exhibit from preserved structures and artifacts a fusion of cultures in its grandiosity. During the colonial period, the Peranakans who benefitted from the thriving trade at that time aimed to distinguished themselves from the rich colonizers by staging elaborate houses and high-end lifestyle. They manifested their wealth onto their clothing, dining and other practices. The men of the Peranakan Chinese, for example, wore their traditional Chinese clothes while their women wore intricately embroidered Malay habaya. The Peranakan cuisine is also famous as Chinese and Malay flavors blend well into a unique taste that is truly Perenakan. Also called Baba-Nyonya (meaning, ladies and gentlemen), traces of the Peranakan culture can be found in Singapore and Penang in Malaysia but is most prominent in Malacca.

Paint the Town Red, Literally!

The prestigious New York Times listed Malacca as one of the 45 places to go in 2012. Rightfully hailed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, it is an irresistible destination for tourists, a perfect retreat for travelers and a responsive subject for photographers. The list states: “With its lantern-lighted canals and silent, narrow streets lined with decades-old ornate temples and shop houses, few places in Southeast Asia conjure romantic images of the past as effectively as Malacca, Malaysia’s oldest city.”

The Dutch Square displays Malacca’s iconic structures. Small as it is, the square exudes a captivating charm that makes me want to sit there the whole day, reliving in my mind how traders then waited at the port and met with people from different parts of the world. They exchanged not only spices and other goods but also, and more importantly, customs, language and other forms of material culture. At night, it is relaxing to watch the changing colors of the fountain and during the day, people flock in and makes the square a vibrant center of activities, sightseeing and simply admiring the age of those buildings and imagine the purposes they served.

Everywhere I look is red all over. Stadthuys, the Christ Church, the Clock Tower and the Bell Tower are all painted in a warm shade of red. It is impressive knowing they stand exactly as what they had been since mid 17th century, an admirable characteristic of Dutch architecture. I read from the guide book I was carrying with me while walking around the town that the buildings were colored as such in order to hide the ruined facades caused by the humid temperature of Malacca. Whatever the reason is, it came out beautiful and perfectly matches the warm weather and the warm people that is truly Malaccan.

The Venice of the East

A river runs through it. The tides play along. The straits of Malacca has become both its curse and its gift. A curse since conquerors got hold of this place because of its strategic location for trade and a gift because it is the identity and the soul of its existence.

The Malacca River is beautiful at night reflecting the colored lights along the banks like fireflies. As the dawn breaks, the greenery and aged structures stand in attention to honor the very reason of their presence, why they become and what they have become.

History is my opium and Malacca got me hooked.

The hotel room where Peranakans used to live in, the narrow streets where those beautiful houses are peacefully lined up, the sidewalks leading to the small bridge over the Malacca River, the River branching out to the Straits of Malacca, everything has a piece of history to tell. I feel thankful for those who exerted the efforts of preserving this little town’s cultural gems, despite being colonial. For without these efforts, I won’t be able to immerse myself in the melancholy of the past and that short present time when history converges with the future.

Malacca’s rich past does not only reflect on to the Dutch Square but stretches up to the burial hill called Bukit Cina where both Muslims and Chinese laid, side-by-side, peacefully to rest. Kubur Belanda or the Dutch Graveyard also guards the way to the top of A’Famosa or Porta de Santiago. The Portuguese forced 1,500 slaves to build this stronghold against invaders. Now considered as one of the oldest European structures in Asia, A’Famosa hurdled several attempts of destruction in the past and was able to save a small part of its former massiveness.

The Dutch Graveyard and the A'Famosa

A'Famosa and St. Paul's Church

St. Xavier's statue in front of St. Paul's Church

Merdaka Malaysia!

After a series of colonizations, Malaysia finally gained its independence in 1957 in Malacca. A quaint building with Islamic architectural features is the place where Merdaka Malaysia was first proclaimed. It is now a museum showcasing Malaysia’s path towards independence.

And this is not the only museum in town. Malacca is a haven for museums. Buildings of historical significance and other colonial representations were transformed into museums preserving the stories of Malacca’s formation, conquer and freedom.

Proclamation of Independence Memorial

A faithful representation of a Portuguese galleon and also a Maritime & Naval Museum.

Embracing Strangers

Malacca is a melting pot of cultures since then until now. Hotels and restaurants are staffed by individuals of various nationalities, there are more than enough options for every palate and the Dragon Year was welcomed not only by the Chinese. Like a quilt which each patch contributes to the beautiful entirety of its design, Malacca effortlessly stitched me into its multicultural identity and made me participate and celebrate diversity.

A colorful trishaw

Souvenirs

My friend, who grew up in Malacca, told me that her hometown industrialized too fast that it has become very different from what she used to live in. Shopping malls sprouted around town and cars jam the streets meant for trishaws. Industrialization conquers Malacca like the colonizers in the past. It is true. But Malacca is unique by welcoming visitors, even the conquerors, and alluring them to call Malacca their home. The malls sit beside historical sites without obstructing them, cars run through the streets without displacing the trishaws and travelers feel at home by the hospitality of the locals.

Invaders, in any form, may enter this cradle of Malaysian culture yet it will never succumb but will continue to transform the unfamiliar and embrace them as their own.

HSBC Building

A restaurant along the riverbanks

The Menara Taming Sari offers a 360-degree panoramic view of Malacca.

In Progress:

1. My food adventures in Malaysia
2. The skyway to Genting Highlands and how I lost at a casino
3. I met Justin Timberlake while getting around Kuala Lumpur
4. Hotel Review of Baba House
5. How to celebrate Chinese New Year in Malacca

I am a bit behind of my Malaysian Chronicles and I hate myself. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed this photo essay and let me know your thoughts about Malacca. Do you share with me the same sentiment about history? Do you agree with my prediction of Malacca’s future despite its urbanization?

And lastly, can someone fill in my memory gap and inform me of the name of this building in Malacca? A big thanks!

Related articles

• A-Famosa “Unplugged” (balajoe27.wordpress.com)
• Photo of the Day: Bicycle Taxis, Malacca, Malaysia (treeofmamre.wordpress.com)
• Malaysia Travel Expenses (theblacktwig.wordpress.com)